Northumberland by Motorhome

Northumberland is the county that most of England has forgotten about, and that is exactly what makes it so good. The most sparsely populated county in England, with a coastline consistently rated the finest in the country, yet even in August you can have an entire beach to yourself. Castles on nearly every headland. Hadrian's Wall cutting across the landscape. The darkest skies in Europe for stargazing. And about two hours from our depot, making it closer than the Lake District and far less crowded. If you have not been, this is the motorhome trip that will surprise you most.

The Coast

Start with Bamburgh. The castle dominates the coastline from a volcanic outcrop above a beach so wide and empty it barely feels like England. On a clear day you can see Holy Island to the north, the Farne Islands offshore, and the Cheviot Hills inland. The beach stretches for miles in both directions and you will often be the only people on it. Bamburgh village itself is small - a couple of pubs, a good deli, and the Grace Darling Museum telling the story of the famous lighthouse rescue.

South of Bamburgh, Embleton Bay is a crescent of sand backed by dunes with Dunstanburgh Castle ruins on the headland at the far end. The walk from Craster to Dunstanburgh along the coastal path (2 miles each way) is one of the finest short walks in England - and Craster has the best kippers in the country from L. Robson and Sons smokehouse. Buy them and cook them in the motorhome for breakfast.

Seahouses is the launch point for boat trips to the Farne Islands - one of the most important seabird colonies in England. Puffins, guillemots, razorbills, and grey seals at close quarters from May to July. Book ahead for the boat trips. Seahouses itself has good fish and chips (Lewis' is the local favourite) and is a practical base with shops and fuel.

Holy Island (Lindisfarne) is reached by a tidal causeway that is covered by the sea twice a day. Check tide times before crossing - people get stranded every year and the coastguard is not sympathetic. The island is peaceful once the day trippers leave. The priory ruins, the castle, and the mead from St Aidan's Winery are the highlights. Motorhome parking is available on the island.

Further south, Alnmouth is a pastel-coloured village on an estuary with a beach that rarely gets busy. Warkworth has another castle (they are everywhere in Northumberland) and a hermitage accessible by boat. Druridge Bay is seven miles of unbroken sand backed by nature reserves - genuinely empty even on bank holidays.

Waren Caravan and Camping Park near Bamburgh has 150 pitches across 100 acres of woodland above Budle Bay with views of the castle and Farne Islands. Beadnell Bay Club Site has 150 pitches directly behind one of the finest beaches on the coast with a motorhome service point. Coast and Castles near Alnwick is smaller, with a service area and access to St Oswald's Way.

Hadrian's Wall

The wall stretches 73 miles from coast to coast, built on the orders of Emperor Hadrian in AD 122. The best-preserved sections run through the Whin Sill - a ridge of volcanic rock that gives the wall its spectacular setting, rolling across the landscape like a stone snake. Housesteads is the most complete Roman fort in Britain. Vindolanda, still being excavated, has produced extraordinary finds including the oldest handwritten documents in Britain - letters from soldiers requesting more beer and warmer socks, proving that some things never change.

The wall is walkable end to end (84 miles on the Hadrian's Wall Path) but most people pick sections. The stretch from Steel Rigg to Housesteads (4 miles) is the most dramatic, crossing the crags with views in every direction. Haltwhistle claims to be the centre of Britain and has good pubs.

Haltwhistle Camping and Caravanning Club Site in Bellister Wood provides a peaceful base for the central wall sections. Herding Hill Farm near Haltwhistle is a newer site with glamping options alongside touring pitches, right on the wall.

Dark Skies

Northumberland National Park and Kielder are designated an International Dark Sky Park - one of only a handful in Europe. On a clear night, the Milky Way arches overhead with a brilliance impossible to find further south. Kielder Observatory runs stargazing events throughout the year (book ahead - they sell out). The best months are October to March when the nights are longest and the air is clearest.

Kielder Forest is the largest man-made woodland in England and Kielder Water the largest man-made lake by capacity. The forest drive around the reservoir is beautiful and manageable in any motorhome. In autumn the colours are outstanding.

Alnwick

Alnwick Castle is the second largest inhabited castle in England and familiar to millions as a Harry Potter filming location. The adjacent Alnwick Garden has the Grand Cascade, a poison garden (genuinely fascinating), and one of the largest treehouses in Europe with a restaurant inside. Barter Books in the old railway station is one of the finest second-hand bookshops in the country. You could lose an entire rainy day in there happily.

Roads and Practical Tips

Northumberland's roads are a pleasure to drive. The A1 runs the length of the county and handles any motorhome. The coast road (B1340/B1339) from Alnmouth to Bamburgh is scenic and manageable. The B6318 follows Hadrian's Wall through beautiful countryside. Lanes to some beaches and villages are narrower but nothing like Cornwall's - Northumberland's roads are generally wider and better surfaced.

Driving times: our depot to Alnwick is about 2 hours. Alnwick to Bamburgh is 20 minutes. Bamburgh to Holy Island is 25 minutes. Bamburgh to Haltwhistle (Hadrian's Wall) is about 50 minutes. Everything is surprisingly close once you are there.

Fuel is available in Alnwick, Seahouses, Berwick-upon-Tweed, and Haltwhistle. Shops are smaller and more spread out than in southern counties - stock up when you pass through a town.

When to Visit

Northumberland is good year-round, which is unusual. Summer for beaches and Farne Island boat trips. Autumn for Kielder colours and the start of dark sky season. Winter for Hadrian's Wall in frost, empty castles, and the best stargazing. Spring for returning seabirds and wildflowers on the coastal path. Northumberland never gets truly crowded, so even August bank holiday is manageable here.

The coast connects south to the Yorkshire Coast and north into the Scottish Borders. A week covers the coast and Hadrian's Wall. Add a second week and you can continue into Scotland or loop west to the Lake District. Dogs love Northumberland - the beaches are mostly dog-friendly year-round and the walking is outstanding.

Browse our fleet and check our packing checklist. Bring warm layers even in summer - the Northumberland coast has a wind that earns respect. And bring your own bedding. We do not provide duvets or towels.